Hermès Birkin 25: production, authentication, and value
Hermès · Tier 1
Birkin
By Arielle · Catalogued July 2026
Designed in 1984 after Hermès then-CEO Jean-Louis Dumas sketched a spacious rectangular holdall for actress and singer Jane Birkin during a commercial flight (commonly cited as 1983/1984; exact year has some variance across sources, with Hermès and most retrospectives settling on 1984). Rectangular, structured silhouette with double rolled top handles, a single wide flap, and a signature front swing lock and clochette (key fob). Sourced as one of the most recognized status symbols in luxury fashion, with multi-year waitlists historically required at retail.
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It began as a doodle on an airplane sick bag, and became the most expensive handbag ever sold.
Origin
A doodle on an airplane sick bag
In 1981 Jane Birkin was seated next to Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas on an Air France flight and spilled her bag across the floor. He told her she should carry one with pockets. She sketched the roomy bag she actually wanted on an airplane sickness bag, and he agreed to make it if he could name it after her.
The brief was practical: a bag big enough to hold a young mother's whole day. Jane treated her own that way too, covering it in stickers and charms and carrying it until it wore out. The polished status object came later; the design started as a tool.
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Jane donated her original Birkin to an AIDS charity auction in 1994. In July 2025 that same prototype sold at Sotheby's Paris for 8.6 million euros, about 10.1 million US dollars with fees, the highest price ever paid for a handbag.
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